The Superstitious Vintner
Our fifth harvest is in full swing here at Jorian Hill, and while it seems like an appropriate time to give our friends a short harvest update, my superstitious side is wary of saying anything too soon. Apparently, a somewhat heightened sense of superstition is all-too common among vintners and winemakers—as any amount of time in this business will teach you that Mother Nature calls all the important shots.
This time of year, everyone who works with winegrapes becomes a chronic cloud watcher, looking for signs of rain in the distance, and sniffing the air for hints of moisture. There’s an increased sense of awareness, as every natural event takes on greater significance. I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t a little bit stressful, but it is also exciting. Along with the stress of harvest, comes an anticipation and exhilaration that is unlike anything else.
If you live in California, you already know we recently had some serious rain, but our Rhône vines are hearty and strong, and our yet-to-be picked grapes continue to look vibrant and healthy. As for our grapes that have already come in, my newly found superstitious side won’t allow me to say much more than that so far we’re thrilled with the quality.
Since our entire Viognier crop has come in, that’s something I do feel a little more comfortable going on record about. As is our tradition, Reed and I got up at the crack of dawn for the first day of our Viognier harvest (September 28). We also tasted the very first juice to be pressed—which was as rich, delicious and fruity as any I have tasted during our years here. These, and other, early indicators make me think this could be a very special vintage for Viognier (similar to 2005).
Once the harvest dust settles nearer to Thanksgiving, we’ll have a better sense for the promise of 2009. Until then, watch the skies!